Swagatam Tours Private Limited

Holidays of Asia

Myanmar Tourism

• Introduction
Since 1988 Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) has been under the military rule of the State Peace and Development Council (SPDC) - formerly known as Slorc - an abominable military junta. Prospective travellers should monitor events in Myanmar and weigh up the arguments in support of and opposition to travel.

Dissent is suppressed, and political prisoners are jailed for expressing their opinions. Nobel Peace Prize Laureate and National League for Democracy (NLD) leader Aung San Suu Kyi advocates boycotting all forms of travel to the country as a means of isolating the government and forcing reform.

Inside Myanmar, there are a number of people who support her stance. This pro-boycott group argues that much of the money from tourism goes directly and indirectly into the pockets of the very generals who continue to deny Burmese citizens the most-basic civil rights. However, others involved with Burmese politics, including many current or former members of the NLD, feel that a travel boycott of Myanmar is counterproductive. They maintain that tourism is not only economically helpful, but vital to the pro-democracy movement for the two-way flow of information it provides.

• When to Visit Myanmar
Climate wise, the best season for visiting Myanmar is November to February, when it rains least and isn't too hot. If you're hitting the hill stations or the Rakhine coast, try March to May - on the other hand, Bagan and Mandalay are intolerable during these months. Myanmar is least crowded in May, June and September.

• Attraction in Myanmar
» Yangon (Rangoon)
Yangon lies in the fertile delta country of southern Myanmar on the Yangon River. Although the population hovers around 4 million, the city seems so full of trees and shade that some neighbourhoods are practically jungle, giving it a totally different feel from other Asian cities of comparable size.

At night, Yangon's wide boulevards come alive with hordes of stalls selling delicious food and piles of huge cigars. If you can close your eyes to the decay of the old colonial architecture downtown, you'll probably agree that this is one of the most charming cities in Asia.

» Bagan
This bewildering, deserted city of fabulous pagodas and temples on the banks of the Ayeyarwady is one of the wonders of Asia. Bagan's period of grandeur stretched from the 11th to the 13th centuries, and an enormous number of magnificent buildings were constructed here. The city was sacked by Kublai Khan in 1287 and never rebuilt. There are some 5000 temples, the most interesting of which are Ananda, Thatbyinnyu and Gawdawpalin.

» Bago (Pega)
During the Mon dynasty, Bago was a fabulous city, a major seaport and capital of lower Myanmar. The city was destroyed by the Burman in 1757 but partially restored in the early 19th century. When the Bago River changed its course and cut the city off from the sea, Bago failed to return to its previous grandeur. Sights include the Shwemawdaw Pagoda, which dominates the town, the Hintha Gone Pagoda and the 55m-long (180ft) reclining Shwethalyaung Buddha.

» Mandalay
This sprawling cultural centre is the most Burman of Myanmar's cities. It was the last capital of Myanmar before the British took over and is the country's second-largest city, complete with bustling markets of produce and handicrafts from all over Upper Myanmar.

Highlights of Mandalay include Shwenandaw Kyaung, the sole remaining building of the once extravagant moated palace; Mandalay Hill, with its spiralling stairways, temples and sweeping views; and the ancient Rakhine Buddha image at Mahamuni Paya. There are four 'deserted cities' nearby: Amarapura, Sagaing, Ava and Mingun. Mingun is the most appealing of the four; not only are there some wonderful monuments in various states of disrepair, but just getting there is half the fun. The boat ride from Mandalay is a treat.

• Off the Beaten Track
» Kengtung (Kyaingtong)
Tucked away in a far eastern corner of the Shan State is the sleepy but historic centre for the state's Khün culture. Built around a small lake and dotted with aging Buddhist temples and crumbling British colonial architecture, Kengtung is probably the most scenic town in the Shan State.

Its opening to foreigners in 1993 came as a complete surprise, considering that this is one of the most remote inhabited mountain valleys in Myanmar. Access is difficult and restricted to flights from Myanmar's interior or a rough overland trip from Tachilek. Apart from the temples and monasteries in the area, it's fun to check out the water buffalo market on the western outskirts of town. Held daily, it's like a used-car lot, with pedlars extolling the virtues of their animals while buyers point out their flaws. When finally a price is agreed upon, money changes hands and the new owners walk off leading their buffaloes by the nose.

» Mawlamyine (Moulmein)
If you're wondering what Yangon and Mandalay looked and felt like years ago, come to Mawlamyine where the atmosphere of post-colonial decay is still palpable. Once a major teak port, this tropical, hillside town south of Thaton is known for its scenic surrounds, elephant labour and beautiful pagodas. Thanbyuzayat, 60km (37mi) to the south, has an Allied cemetery - the resting place of prisoners who died building the infamous 'death railway' during WWII. Mawlamyine is the only place in Burma that Rudyard Kipling, author of the famous Road to Mandalay, actually visited.

» Mrauk U (Myohaung)
Hidden in the encroaching jungle, in hill country close to the Bangladesh border, Mrauk U is reached only by riverboat - well off the beaten track! It is noteworthy for its Arakanese art and architecture, and its Buddhist temple ruins. Important ruins include the 80,000 Pagoda (so named because of the 80,000 Buddah images found there) and an ordination hall. Mrauk U is accessible from Sittwe in western Myanmar.

• Reaching Myanmar
Although Myanmar essentially remains a 'fly in, fly out' destination, the good news is that the military government has gradually extended visa stays, resulting in more and more airlines putting Rangoon on their itinerary. The 10.00 departure tax can be paid for in dollars or Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECS).

There are some road border crossings at the Thai/Myanmar border (noticeably the Mae Sai-Thakhilek and Ranong-Kawthoung crossings) but they're currently closed because of guerrilla and bandit activity in the area. In times of certainty, foreign travellers can travel the famous Burma Road and enter Myanmar via the Yunnan province in China, although border traffic is all one way. It's not possible to cross back into China from the same checkpoint. Several entry points have also opened along the Thai border.

One persistent rumour is that the Chin State is about to open its borders to limited tour groups, which may parlay in the not-too-distant future into permission for individual travellers to traverse the state via the Chin River, all the way to the Indian border at Tamu.

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