Places to enjoy When you are fit and Healthy
» Delhi

Your
first impression of Delhi is unlikely to be a good one, particularly if it's
also your first impression of India. You'll most likely notice the pollution,
the crowds, the smell, the noise and the ceaseless hassles long before you notice
the city's charms. But it's worth persevering: the history of this city is fascinating,
and it's all around you; the bazaars of Paharganj are a wonderful introduction
to India's backpacker trail; the city's monuments are among the most architectuarally
striking in the country; and the food here is great.
Delhi is the capital of India, and it's also the travel hub of northern India.
It's an excellent base for visiting Agra and the Taj Mahal, and the Rajasthani
colour of Jaipur is less than five hours away. If you're heading north to
the Himalaya or east to the ghats of Varanasi, you'll probably pass through
Delhi. So you might as well grit your teeth, hold your breath and dive on
in.
» Mumbai
Mumbai is the glamour of Bollywood cinema, cricket on the maidans on weekends,
bhelpuri on the beach at Chowpatty and red double-decker buses. It is also the
infamous cages of the red-light district, Asia's largest slums, communalist
politics and powerful mafia dons. This tug of war for the city's soul is played
out against a Victorian townscape more reminiscent of a prosperous 19th century
English industrial city than anything you'd expect to find on the edge of the
Arabian Sea.
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» Goa
It's a shame Goa comes burdened with a history of loach living, because there's
so much more to it than sun, sand and psychedelic. The allure of Goa is that
it remains quite distinct from the rest of India and is small enough to be grasped
and explored in a way that other Indian states are not. It's not just the familiar
remnants of European colonialism or the picture-book exoticism that make it
seem so accessible, it's the prevalence of Roman Catholicism and a form of social
and political progressiveness that Westerners feel they can relate to. Although
Hindus outnumber Catholics, skirts far outnumber saris, and the people display
a liberality and civility which you'll be hard pressed to find elsewhere in
India.
» Calcutta
The capital of West Bengal sprawls shapelessly along the eastern bank of the
Hooghly River. Once the glorious capital of British India, its urban horror
story of squalor and starvation only began with Partition and a resulting massive
influx of refugees. This plucky city, however, is keen to promote itself as
the 'City of Joy' and, given half a chance, it reveals itself to be one of the
country's most fascinating and congenial cities, the intellectual capital of
the nation, and a thriving political and arts arena.
» Agra
The Taj Mahal, described as the most extravagant monument ever built for love,
has become the de facto tourist emblem of India. This poignant Moghul mausoleum
was constructed by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his second wife Mumtaz Mahal,
whose death in childbirth in 1631 left the emperor so heartbroken that his hair
is said to have turned grey overnight. Construction of the Taj began in the
same year and was not completed until 1653.
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» Varanasi
For over 2000 years, Varanasi, the 'eternal city', has been the religious
capital of India. Built on the banks of the sacred Ganges, it is said to combine
the virtues of all other places of pilgrimage and anyone who ends their days
here, regardless of creed and however great their misdeeds, is transported
straight to heaven. The easternmost city in Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi is an
important seat of learning, and is the home of novelists, philosophers and
grammarians. This has been reflected in its role in the development of Hindi
- the closest thing to a national language in India.
» Shimla
The 'summer capital' of British India sprawls along a crescent-shaped ridge
at an altitude of over 2100m (6890ft) in southern Himachal Pradesh. This was
the most important hill station in India before Independence, and the social
life here in the summer months when the Brits came to escape the torrid heat
of the plains was legendary - balls, bridge parties and parades went hand
in hand with gossip, intrigue and romance. Today, the officers, administrators
and lah-di-dah ladies of the Raj have been replaced by throngs of holidaymakers,
but echoes of Shimla's British past remain strong. The famous main street,
The Mall, still runs along the crest of the ridge and is lined with stately
English-looking houses. Christ Church, Gorton Castle and the fortress-like
former Viceroyal Lodge reinforce the English flavour.
» Jaipur
The capital of Rajasthan is popularly known as the 'pink city' because of
the ochre-pink hue of its old buildings and crenellated city walls. The Rajputs
considered pink to be a colour associated with hospitality, and are reputed
to have daubed the city in preparation for the visit of Britain's Prince Alfred
in 1853. This tradition and Jaipur's welcoming, relaxed air continue to this
day.
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» Udaipur
The most romantic city in Rajasthan, built around the lovely Lake Pichola,
has inevitably been dubbed the 'Venice of the East'. Founded in 1568 by Maharana
Udai Singh, the city is a harmonious Indian blend of whitewashed buildings,
marble palaces, lakeside gardens, temples and havelis (traditional mansions).
It boasts an enviable artistic heritage, a proud reputation for performing
arts and a relatively plentiful water supply, all of which have helped make
it an oasis of civilisation and colour in the midst of drab aridity.
» Mysore
This charming, easy-going city has long been a favourite with travellers since
it's a manageable size, enjoys a good climate and has chosen to retain and
promote its heritage rather than replace it. The city is famous for its silk
and is also a thriving sandalwood and incense centre, though don't expect
the air to be any more fragrant than the next town.
» Kochi (Cochin)
The port city of Kochi is located on a cluster of islands and narrow peninsulas.
The older parts of the city are an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal, Holland
and an English country village grafted onto the tropical Malabar Coast. Here,
you can see the oldest church in India, winding streets crammed with 500-year-old
Portuguese houses, cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish community whose
roots go back to the Diaspora, a 16th-century synagogue, a palace containing
some of India's most beautiful murals, and performances of the world-famous
Kathakali dance-drama. Ferries scuttle back and forth between the various
parts of Kochi and dolphins can often be seen in the harbour. Most of the
historical sights are in Fort Cochin or Mattancherry. Budget accommodation
can be found in mainland Ernakulam.
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» Darjeeling
Straddling a ridge at an altitude of over 2100m (6890ft) in the far north of
West Bengal, Darjeeling has been a favourite hill station of the British since
they established it as an R 'n' R centre for their troops in the mid-1800s.
The town remains as popular as ever and offers visits to Buddhist monasteries,
tours to tea plantations, shopping in bustling bazaars and trekking in high-altitude
spots to the north. Like many places in the Himalaya, half the fun is in getting
there and Darjeeling has the unique attraction of the famous

miniature
train, which loops and switchbacks its way from the plains up to Darjeeling
in a 10-hour grind of soot and smoke.
» Jaisalmer
This desert fortress close to Rajasthan's border with Pakistan is straight
out of an Arabian fairy tale. Founded in the 12th century as a staging post
for camel trains travelling between India and Central Asia, Jaisalmer is a
golden sandstone city with crenellated city walls, a magnificent fortress
and a number of exquisitely carved stone and wooden havelis. Seen at sunset
from afar, it glows with the luminescence of a mirage.
» Leh
Leh, a one-time departure point for yak trains travelling into Central Asia,
is located in a small valley just to the north of the Indus Valley. These
days it is part strategic military centre and part tourist town. It's main
claim to fame is the Leh Palace. It was built in the 16th century but is now
deserted and badly damaged, a legacy of Ladakh's wars with Kashmir in the
last century. The main reason for making the climb up to the palace is for
the superb views from the roof. The Zanskar mountains, across the Indus River,
look close enough to touch. The palace was sold to the Archaeological Survey
of India by the Ladakhi royal family and an ambitious renovation project is
under way. Try to get a monk to unlock the preserved, but now unused, central
prayer room; it's dusty and spooky, with huge masks looming out of the dark.
It's worth escaping from the handicraft shops and backpacker restaurants to
stroll around the meandering laneways of the Old Quarter and catch a glimpse
of what the town used to look like before it began to accommodate tourists.
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» Khajuraho
This quiet, genial, dusty village in northern Madhya Pradesh is awash with
temples. Temples for everything - sun gods, sacred bulls and, more memorably,
sex. Stone figures of apsaras or 'celestial maidens' pout and pose like Playboy
pin-ups while mithuna, erotic figures, run through a whole Kama Sutra of positions
and possibilities. It's highly salacious stuff and one reason why the temples
of Khajuraho are famous throughout the world. The other reason is that they
are liberally embellished with some of the finest handiwork of the Chandela
period, a dynasty which survived for five centuries before falling to the
onslaught of Islam. Visitors are also drawn to a dance festival, celebrated
in March, which attracts some of the best classical dancers in the country
- the floodlit temples provide a spectacular backdrop during the event.
» Kerala Backwaters
The complex network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals fringing the coast
of Kerala forms the basis of a distinct regional lifestyle, and travelling
by boat along these backwaters is one of the highlights of a visit to the
state. The boats cross shallow, palm-fringed lakes studded with Chinese fishing
nets, and along narrow, shady canals where coir (coconut fibre), copra and
cashews are loaded onto boats. Stops are made at small settlements where people
live on carefully cultivated narrow spits of land only a few metres wide,
and there's the chance to see traditional boats with huge sails, and prows
carved into the shape of dragons. The most popular backwater trip is the eight-hour
voyage between Kollam and Alappuzha, but most of your fellow passengers on
this route will be Western travellers. If you want a local experience, or
you simply feel like a shorter trip, there are local boats from Alappuzha
to Kottayam and Changanassery.
» Andaman & Nicobar Islands
This string of 300 richly forested tropical islands lies in the Bay of Bengal
between India and Myanmar and stretches almost to the tip of Sumatra. Ethnically,
the islands are not part of India and, until fairly recently, they were inhabited
only by indigenous tribal people. The majority of the Andaman & Nicobar
Islands are uninhabited, surrounded by coral reefs, and have white sandy beaches
and incredibly clear water. This is an excellent place for snorkelling, scuba
diving and lazing on the beach. Indian tourists may roam freely, but foreigners
are constrained by a 30-day permit, allowing only limited travel. There are
regular flights to Port Blair on South Andaman from Calcutta and Chennai (Madras);
permits are issued at the airport on arrival. Infrequent boats from Calcutta
and Chennai take four days to reach the islands; permits must be obtained
in advance if arriving by boat.
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